The Yamaha CR-620 was one of Yamaha’s mid-range units from 1977-1979. It put out 35 watts per channel into 8 ohms. It has the classic Yamaha styling and was rated at 0.015% total harmonic distortion. The unit weighs in at just over 23 pounds.
The Yamaha CR-620 has signal and tuning meters on the front panel along with:
- A and B speaker switch
- Low and High filter switch
- Stereo/Mono mode switch
- FM muting switch
- AM/FM tuner switch
- Output Selector – Tape 1, Tape 2, Tuner, Phono, Aux
- Input Selector – Tape 2, Tape 1, Tuner, Phono, Aux
It also had Bass Treble and Loudness controls and two headphone jacks.
The rear panel includes:
- AC Outlet Unswitched (2)
- AC Outlet Switched
- Antenna Inputs: 300 ohm balanced, 75 ohm unbalanced, coaxial.
- AM Ferrite Bar Antenna
- Phono
- Aux
- Tape 1 Playback
- Tpae 1 Record
- Tape 2 Playback
- Tape 2 Record
- Speaker Out A
- Speaker Out B
The CR-620 sells for about $100 to $250.
I would like to know if the Yamaha cr-620 receiver uses a ceramic or a magnetic cartridge on the phono input ?
Not sure about magnetic or ceramic cartridges. The phono input is designed for MM cartridges though.
Do not know what an mm cartridge is… does it need a pre-amp for the turntable ?
MM is Moving Magnet as opposed to an MC or Moving Coil cartridge. The cartridge fits on the turntable tonearm and acts as a mini amplifier. The CR-620 phono circuit is designed for MM cartridges. Just check to see if you’re turntable has an MM cartridge on it. If it does then you can hook the turntable directly to the receiver. Just run your cables from the turntable to the Phono inputs on the back of the CR-620 (including the Ground wire) and you should be good to go. The CR-620 has preamp and amplifier circuitry built into it. Of course, you’ll need speakers as well. For more info on the cartridges check out This Site.
It uses a magnetic cartridge.
To find a pleasing sound with a Yamaha receiver, I have found that this is what works for me. First, set the volume. For me, that’s at 2 (9 o’clock). Then set your Loudness setting. For me, that’s at Flat (5 o’clock), which counter-intuitively is actually at its Full setting. Then I set the Bass at +1 and the Treble at +2. Voila, a nice, full, rich sound you can enjoy for hours. With that signature understated Yamaha Bauhaus styling, you’ll be in audio heaven.
This Yamaha receiver has one major problem, it’s not great on bass. In order to get any good bass you have to crank it up all the way to 5, it was improved in next generation models or in higher models CR-1020 and 2020. Otherwise sound is really incredible and it’s my most favorite minimalist / elegance design of all receivers.
I currently own a CR-620 and I find it has a very satisfying sound to it. That may be different things to different people, but matched with some Large Advent speakers, I would dare to find a match in that category for quality sound. I bought mine for ridiculously cheap because the FM dial string is broken. However, I don’t listen to much of the commercialized FM stations anymore and just use it for the amplification. Plenty good in my opinion.
Looking at pretty clean 620 and would like opinion vs Kenwood KR 6050 for same price. Will run DCM CX27 and Thorens turntable. Thoughts?
If you like the ‘Natural Sound’ of the Yamaha’s then I would go with the CR-620. But, in terms of value the Kenwood is worth more $$. Probably about $50-$100 more, if that matters to you. Plus the Kenwood has 60 watts as opposed to the Yamaha’s 40. Still, both are very nice receivers and you can’t really go wrong with either. Just my 2 cents.
Would this drive a pair of Polk T50s?
I own the Yamaha CR 620 and had it restored and love it through my Monitor Audio Bronze 100’s. Question, has anyone had any experience with Planar Magnetic headphones with the on board amp? I’m interested in the new Hifiman XS or Sundara and do t want any additional peripherals. Will the Yamaha drive either of these?
I haven’t had my CR-620 very long, but I’ve had no problems using my Sundaras with it so far. Setting the volume around 3 1/2 (10 o’clock) with loudness on flat gets the volume about as high as I’d ever want it.
I had mine re-capped and I really like it. I take back my earlier comments about setting the tone controls. Just set the Loudness to Flat and let the engineers’ volume and loudness interaction calculations take care of it. Easy-peasy.